Author: James Ede

GADA – Go anywhere, do anything. These are easily the best watches you can lay your hands on – if off-the-chart versatility and style are your specs. And luxury GADA watches don’t have to break the bank. You can find a spectacular piece within your budget using our list and top picks as a template. The only thing you’ll miss as you do down the budget line is big-name brands.

As watch faithful, though, you’ll be impressed by the level of craftsmanship and finish on even the “cheapest” GADA luxury watch on this list. What matters more? Well, if it’s luxury and pizzazz, you’ll find them in this review.  Let’s dive into GADA watches. 

About Luxury GADA Watches 

It’s hard to put a date on when GADA watches began since it’s essentially a concept for comfortable and functional timepieces. But it’s only right to trace its history to the origin of sports watches. 

More specifically, when Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary set out to climb Mount Everest, along with woolen suits and ice axes, these explorers carried Rolex Explorers on their trip. The rugged timepieces reached the summit and back intact. 

This is a watch that feels at home at high altitudes and is more than welcome at a fashion show or a five-star restaurant. The Omega Seamaster is another iconic GADA at this point – as it also made a trailblazing journey into space.

Soon, around two decades later, classic dressy luxury watch brands like AP and Patek Philippe embraced the GADA culture. They released the Royal Oak and Nautilus as their official launches into the world of sports watches.  

These watches, as far as horological history goes, are the frontrunners for the advent of GADA watches in pop culture today. 

How To Spot The Perfect GADA Luxury Watch

What’s a watch review without a guide on how the editors made our top picks? That’s a dictatorship. Or garbage at worst because you don’t have a map that can show you how to make your own informed decision about your top pick. 

Wearability

The whole point of a GADA watch is to be so comfortable that you want to wear it everywhere you go.  We pay attention to the little details that make them so wearable, regardless of brand or model. This will help you pick a GADA timepiece outside of the models on our list if they’re outside your price range or not to your taste. 

Case-Bracelet Symmetry: A GADA watch should have a bracelet at least half the width of the case, preferably more. It gives the watch a sturdy and reinforced feel and contours well to the wrist. 

Bezel: GADA watches may have the durability of an instrument watch, but they’re primarily bezel-less and without the crown or pushers protruding. That’ll be considered too sporty and inconvenient to go anywhere. 

Case size: a prime candidate for a GADA watch should be around 40mm. Thomas Stover calls it the “Goldilocks zone” because it’s large enough for readability and portable enough to dress up.

Build Quality & Durability

Can’t settle for less when it comes to durability in a GADA watch. So, how do you spot a timepiece durable enough to be a tool watch and stay classy?  

It’s all about the material component, as GADA watches consist of a solid case build, a secure clasp system, and a legible and luminous dial.  

Versatility

The style and engineering of a GADA watch should be suitable for casual and formal wear. It’s not enough for a watch model to be water-resistant and strong. It should also be a good contender for formal wear.

Consequently,  a predominantly classy and dressy GADA should be capably built for active or sporty wear to be considered GADA. 

12 Best Luxury GADA Watches

This is a list of the best luxury everyday wear watches, with prices ranging from two thousand dollars to about fifty thousand dollars. 

1. Ball Engineer III Marvelight Chronometer (ref. NM9026C-S6CJ-BK)

Starts from approximately $2,200

The Ball Engineer Marvelight is the lesser-known GADA watch for hardcore enthusiasts and new watch lovers. This watch is so good it’ll pass for a Rolex Datejust alternative with flying colors. With a 40mm stainless steel case that’s only 13.6mm thick and weighs 180g, you can go anywhere and do anything with the Marvelight. 

Unlike a Datejust, though, you aren’t getting the trademark steel. But you get a 904L stainless steel shield that’s reinforced with a mu-metal shield, which means you can wear it underwater or in magnetic fields. It’s water resistant to 100 meters and has a 1000-gauss anti-magnetic protection. 

It has a captivating black dial that contrasts perfectly with the silver hour markers. What’s more attractive is the architecture of its case. This dial is not just about aesthetics; it’s also about functionality. Ball’s signature H3 gas tubes adorn the hour markers, offering luminescence that outshines traditional SuperLuminova, ensuring optimal visibility in low-light conditions.

Inside the Marvelight is Ball’s RR1103-C caliber, a COSC-certified automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. While this may come up short for collectors, it’s perfect for anyone who wants luxury daily wear. 

Its chunky bracelet and large crown give it a substantial feel on the wrist, yet its dimensions make it versatile enough to double as a dress watch.

 2. Tudor Ranger (ref. M79950-0001)

Starts from approximately $3190

The Tudor Ranger (ref. M79950-0001) is a testament to Tudor’s commitment to precision, functionality, and timeless design. Drawing inspiration from its rich heritage, the Ranger is a modern reimagining of the classic field watch. 

It’s encased in a 39mm steel frame with a brushed satin finish and rounded case reminiscent of the Ball. They have a similar case design but a different finish. The Ball is more versatile for formal wear, while the Ranger has a casual appeal. I only mean this theoretically; practically, though, both timepieces are to die for in a dress. 

The Tudor Ranger’s enigmatic dial exudes “GADA.” It has a dull vintage matte black dial with clearly illuminated hour markers characteristic of a tool watch while maintaining a dressy appeal. Admittedly, the polished bezel edges play a part in this. Moreover, the mixed styling of the hour markers and hands, using Roman numerals, a red pointed seconds hand, and an arrow hour hand, are rare Tudor features.  

Only 12mm thick with a 47mm lug-to-lug dimension, you can’t miss out on the comfort plane. And it uses a powerful 70-hour power reserve in-house MT-5402 automatic caliber. If style, readability, and comfort from a fairly popular brand interest you, this Tudor Ranger is your GADA. 

3. Longines Spirit Zulu Time 39mm (ref. L3.802.4.63.6)

Starts from approximately $3,400 

The Spirit Zulu might be Longines’ best-kept secret. Because for a brand that’s almost purely a dress watchmaker, they knocked this GADA out of the park. Although we agree a GADA watch should be bezel-less, the Spirit Zulu remains wearable with its 39mm steel case.

It’s refreshingly different. While the case is round, the lugs have a distinctive angular shape that gives it a robust look, although they are still under 47mm. The bezel is bi-directional and can function as a second 24-hour time zone. An extra hand on the dial reads minutes.

The Spirit Zulu is powered by an in-house L888-4 caliber with 65 hours of power reserve. While I love the durability and versatility of its stainless steel build and sapphire glass face, I appreciate the wide range of strap options. It’s available in blue and white leather straps with a blue dial. 

That’s right. It’s dressy, robust, functional, and comfortable. We just couldn’t pass up the Longines Spirit Zulu on a list of “go anywhere, do anything” watches.

4. Oris ProPilot X Calibre 400 (ref. 01 400 7778 7155-07 7 20 01TLC)

Starts from approximately $4,000

The Oris ProPilot X is astoundingly reminiscent of the F-35 fighter jet. A streamlined, sleek, yet powerful modern (released in 2022) luxury GADA watch. The Calibre 400 is ruggedly built with titanium all around, from the case to the bracelet.

It has a thoughtful and utilitarian aesthetic that pays homage to its aviation roots. The jagged bezel is inspired by the turbine of an airplane, which is beautiful and functional for pilots wearing gloves in the field.

Aside from an all-titanium build and 100-meter water resistance to do anything, it can be styled to go anywhere. This ProPilot X Calibre 400 has a painted blue dial and pointy, luminous hands and markers that complement its bezel.

Furthermore, the case is only 39mm wide and about 12mm thick. With that, you can dress it up or take it for a swim easily. Its wearability is compared to the Omega Seamaster 300M and the Seiko Turtle. 

Not to mention, it uses an Oris 400 caliber with 120 hours of power reserve. And is on display in its open caseback with similar turbine-inspired edges like the bezel. Finally, you have three dial options in pink and gray. 

5. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX (ref. IW328201)

Starts from approximately $5,500

Another pilot watches to make this list, but this time, a simpler model that traces back to World War II. The Mark XX is a symbol of history and modernity contained in a 40mm stainless steel case with a slim 10.8mm profile. 

Its matte black dial with Roman numeral hour markers and logo at 12 o’clock set a vintage vibe. So do the other color options, like sunburst blue and sunburst green. The black-and-white contrast of the dial, markers, hands, date window, and slim case is astonishing. 

Don’t let the cool and portable profile fool you. The IWC Pilot Watch Mark X is a powerhouse. Its 32111 caliber has a power reserve that can last up to 5 days. It’s also water-resistant up to 100 meters. 

Whether you rock this vintage timepiece on a stainless steel or leather strap, it’s the epitome of a luxury GADA watch. Its sheer doggedness and wearability are all you need to get there.

6. Grand Seiko Heritage SBGA211

Starts from approximately $6,200 

The Grand Seiko SBGA211, AKA Snowflake, is one of Grand Seiko’s most sought-after models. It’s a symphony of careful design and engineering prowess. What stands out in the Grand Seiko SBGA211 is its trademark Snowflake dial. It draws inspiration from the snow peaks of the Jonen Mountains just outside the Grand Seiko workshop. 

A brass plate goes through a multi-stage process to bring out the snow-white color without painting. Despite its size, it’s a testament to world-class craftsmanship and makes the SBGA211 a capable dress watch. 

And durability isn’t in doubt, either. It’s crafted in a 41mm high-intensity titanium case and is 12.5mm thick. It’s about thirty percent lighter than stainless steel watches, making it extra comfortable and actually “a pleasure to wear.” 

The SBGA also uses a game-changing spring drive of 9R65 caliber. It boasts a three-hour power reserve, and a power reserve indicator is at the bottom left of the dial. All in all, the SBGA211 “Snowflake” is the perfect GADA watch to enjoy a bulky yet lightweight and dressy timepiece.  

7. Hublot Classic Fusion Racing Grey Titanium 42mm (ref. 542.NX.7071.RX)

Starts from at approximately $7,900

This is the first rubber strap entry on this list and probably the last. But you’ll see soon why it’s a worthy model on the list.  The 42mm titanium case is easily its standout feature. There’s a perfect symmetry to the case etchings, pins, markers, and hands that’s simply eye candy for either enthusiasts or the uninitiated. 

Hublot Classic Fusion runs on a Hublot 1110 caliber with a Sellita base. It features only 42 hours of power reserve and 25 jewels. This may be the only downside to what’s otherwise a sublime piece of art. 

As expected from titanium, it’s lightweight. This, coupled with the gray rubber strap, makes it the ultimate luxury GADA watch. The washed gray dial is the perfect companion to a dinner date and will equally accompany you for laps in the pool. 

8. Omega Constellation Globemaster (ref. 130.30.39.21.03.001)

Starts from approximately $8,500

This is one of Omega’s more reliable and accurate timepieces and is also a paragon of elegance. However, it’s an unconventional design and engineering for those who dare to be different while still upholding GADA standards.  

You don’t have to worry about comfort and durability with this masterpiece from Omega. It hits the sweet spot with its 39mm case and 12mm thickness. 

It embodies a fusion of different eras in Omega chronometer designs. The unique “pie pan” dial with edges that appear like it’s a 12-pointed star or 3D work of art. It was the favorite feature of 50’s and 60’s constellation models. Even in “Globemaster,” the name was borrowed from the first Constellation. 

Also, this dial has impeccable readability, like stars on a clear winter night. The blue dial contrasts with the silver stick hour markers, while the dotted minute markers look like bright stars. And they match with the carbide bezel, case, and bracelet, which is spectacular. 

What’s more, only the crown protrudes from the case. It may be a small adjustment, but it makes the difference for a stylish dress watch. 

Moreso, the Constellation Globemaster is a master time teller carrying Omega’s 8900 caliber. It carries the “Master Chronometer” label, indicating that it underwent the rigorous testing and certification process with METAS. 

9. Rolex Oyster Perpetual Green Dial (ref. 124300-0005)

Starts from approximately $10,000

An epic luxury watch list is almost incomplete without a member of the Rolex family. And the Oyster Perpetual made the cut not because of some nefarious nepotic scheme but for its brilliant excellence as a GADA. 

It was love at first sight; however, as the saying goes, love simply isn’t enough. But its basic yet classy features will justify the price tag. 

Let’s be honest. The first thing you notice about this watch is its green dial. Aside from its beauty, this is a rare feature in Rolex collections and increases its resale value. But that’s beside the point. It makes it a perfect fit to style your evening wear or a casual outfit.

Durability is not a debate with a Rolex timepiece. The Oystersteel case and bracelet are tested and trusted to withstand rough or extreme use. This watch is water-resistant up to 100 meters and has a dependable Rolex caliber 3230 that’ll stay accurate in extreme conditions for up to 45 hours. 

Without any initial doubts, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual is a top-notch luxury GADA watch for folks who want to make a statement in the process.  

10. Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5167A

Starts from approximately $25,000

When it comes to making statements, you can’t go wrong with Patek Philippe. Or the next two watch models on this list. We are talking about the “Holy Trinity” of horology. And the Aquanaut is one piece you can wear anywhere. 

It’s the epitome of luxury and simplicity. Its simple yet sophisticated craftsmanship design is what makes it irresistible. The black dial, sweeping hands, Arabic numeral, front-and-back sapphire cover, and insane durability and water resistance 

I’ll start with the dial. It’s carefully embossed with a checkered grid design that looks like a spherical representation of the globe in black. And the gold-applied hands and hour markers have a harmonious connection that tells the time extravagantly. 

The 41mm stainless steel case turns what would’ve otherwise been too sporty into an ultimate GADA piece. It has a bold cushion shape that transforms the Aquanaut into what you want to be underwater in a wetsuit, tuxedo, or plain tee. Coupled with its composite black strap and its only 8.9mm thickness, the Patek Philippe is the best sporty luxury GADA watch. 

The case is also water-resistant to 120 meters. Flipping it on its back, you can peep the Caliber 324 SC with a gold rotor. The only downside is that I expected more than a 70-hour power reserve from such a powerhouse. One thing’s for certain, though: it will last the lifetime of several generations.   

11. Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self-Winding (ref. 4500V/110A-B483)

Starts from approximately $21,000

“Perfectly suitable for active lifestyles,” is the first thing VC says about this model on their sales page. So, if you don’t take my word for it, Vacheron Constantin should change your mind. 

This Overseas model is pure luxury and fully customizable for an epic GADA experience. It features an easily interchangeable strap system with steel, leather, and rubber options available, plus a secure clasp system. In essence, you enjoy the best of every occasion, like the Apple Watch, depending on your straps. 

It has a 41mm Maltese cross-shaped case with a black dial that will turn heads in any setting. This stainless steel encasing has a pronounced polish finish that reflects beautifully. And the dial is finished in gloss, so it appears darker against the stick and dot hour markers and hands, especially when they come alive in the dark. 

The outer case and bracelet portray meticulous craftsmanship with their brushed finish. An open case back with a sapphire crystal cover displays the VC 5100 caliber with a 22k gold rotor. It features 60 hours of power reserve, 37 jewels, and a date function.

12. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Self-Winding (ref. 15510ST.OO.1320ST.08)

Starts from approximately $45,000

In the grand scheme of things, the AP Royal Oak will go down as the ultimate luxury GADA watch. Luxury, comfort, and style. The Royal Oak is touted as Audemars Piguet’s latest ergonomic design evolution. 

With an integrated bracelet, you enjoy the best of both worlds – aesthetics and comfort. The harmonious flow of the lug into the bracelet reinforced durability, and extra conformity to the wrists. But that’s just a warmup. Its octagonal 41mm stainless steel case casts the watch under the spotlight.

The expert-made Grand Tapisserie dial provides substance when you look closely at the guilloche patterns. Furthermore, the hour markers and hand appliances can work, and they have an impressive finish that appears like titanium or white gold. Inside the case, is a caliber 4302 with 70 hours of power reserve.

Conclusion 

Luxury GADA watches accompany you anywhere you want to go and are suitable for any purpose. Essentially, these timepieces become a dress, sport, or tool watch as you desire. If your aim is to pick the absolute cream of the crop, then this guide has all the models that can make that a reality.

You’ll find entry-level luxury for as little as two thousand bucks and can gradually transcend into the “Holy Trinity” of watches for as much as forty thousand. Alternatively, you can guide yourself to pick a non-luxury GADA watch based on our guide and top picks. For now, enjoy the top 12 luxury GADA watches in the horological scene.

In the world of horology, few timepieces command the same level of allure and prestige as gold watches. Even diamonds, considered a “lady’s best friend”, do not have as much classical essence as gold watches. And its history dates back centuries.

In recent times, gold watches have taken on different forms for different folks. There is a watch to cater to every desire, from luxurious solid gold watches to affordable gold-plated ones.

And we are here to further whet your appetite with our list of the 15 best gold watches from affordable to luxury. Beyond catering to diverse tastes and preferences, each watch on our list tells a unique story that will capture your heart and pockets and elevate your style. Check it out!

About Gold Watches

It’s hard to pinpoint when gold found its way into watchmaking, but one thing’s for sure. It pre-dates modern wristwatches to the era of sundials, hourglasses, towers, and domestic clocks.

For starters, manufacturers coated the metal hands of tower clocks with gold in the 13th and 14th centuries. And, of course, when pocket watches, like the French Onion Watch, were developed, they were often made into gold cases.

At the onset, gold was a perfect canvas for craftsmanship and artistic expression. It’s malleable (can be easily shaped) and highly corrosion-resistant. 

However, due to their rarity and inherent value, they soon caught the attention of nobles, aristocrats, and high society. The first gold watches on record were purportedly owned by Queen Elizabeth I of England and were often embellished with jewels like pearls, rubies, and emeralds. 

Furthermore, gold also has a heavy presence in marine chronometer manufacture due to its anti-corrosive nature, as mentioned earlier. While this has relatively dwindled since the discovery of stainless steel, dive and marine-inclined watches are still designed with gold of all karats.

Beyond their intrinsic beauty, gold watches symbolize more than just a means to check the hour. They are often synonymous with luxury and sophistication. It is an eye-catching piece that makes the wearer appear to have refined taste and an appreciation for classy culture. More commonly, gold watches serve as a family heirloom and a testament to years of hard work, dedication, and life achievements.

What To Look For In Gold Watches?

Gold watches have had an ever-evolving presence in the watch industry. In the early days, gold watches were highly sought after as a status symbol among the wealthy elite. But then stainless steel watches became a feature that made top-tier watches affordable in the 20s. Interest in gold watches plummeted with the advent of quartz watches, and now, with the onset of the digital revolution, more premium was placed on functionality and accuracy.

Nevertheless, gold watches have experienced a rebirth, rightfully taking back their place in the industry. One can now own an affordable gold watch with an authentic movement and some digital features. And if luxury does it for you, several high-priced gold watches are available on the market. What really matters when shopping for a gold watch is knowing what works for you.

Keeping your preference in mind, here are some essential aspects to consider before buying a gold watch:

Watch Design

While the allure of the precious metal often takes center stage in a gold watch, its design is also a crucial aspect. Whether you are drawn to classical designs or contemporary creations, the design of your gold watch speaks volumes about your taste and passions.

When exploring gold watches, it is crucial to consider the shape and size of the watch case, especially if you are on a budget. Depending on their purity, larger gold watch cases will cost more than smaller ones, as they require more gold. 

A large gold watch could also add some weight to your wrist than smaller ones. Conversely, more prominent cases are great conversation starters as they draw more attention to this wrist.

Along with the case size, you should also consider the dial’s design. The primary function of a watch is to tell the time. So go for a legible design that you can read clearly despite its pearl inlays and other embellishments. Then find a comfortable strap material to go with it. It could be a leather strap or a gold bracelet, whichever works for you.

Gold Karat

Knowing the different gold categories is crucial in selecting a gold watch, as it determines the appearance and durability of the watch. Gold purity is measured in karats, and in its pure form is 24 karats. In this state, you’re getting 99.9% shiny yellow gold, hypoallergenic (safe for sensitive skin). However, it’s too soft to be used to make watches, durable ones with a shape at least.

So most gold watches are a mixture of pure gold and other metals, called a gold alloy, which enhances strength and durability. It’s the percentage of the mixture that’s classified into 18 karats, 14 karats, and 10 karats quality. For instance, an 18-karat gold watch comprises 75% pure gold and 25% other metals such as zinc, silver, or copper, while a 10-karat gold watch contains only 41.7% gold.

Some other common gold variations include white gold (a combination of gold and white metal) and rose gold (a mixture of yellow gold and copper).

Gold Plated vs. Solid Gold

Choosing between gold-plated and solid gold watches is a matter of taste and budget. While each option has its perks, understanding their differences is critical to making an informed decision. 

Gold-plated watches, like regular watches, have a metal base, which could be stainless steel or brass. However, the base metal is often coated with a thin layer of gold through electroplating. 

Since minimal gold is used in making gold-plated watches, they are more affordable, weigh less and have broader design variations. At the same time, they are less durable, have limited value retention, and individuals may experience skin reactions from the base metal.

Alternatively, solid gold watches are either crafted entirely from pure gold or with gold alloys. So it’s no surprise they are more elegant, durable, and will catch a crowd’s attention easily. Since they are built to stand the test of time, they often make for heirloom pieces. On the flip side, they cost a leg and head and weigh a ton on the wrist compared to stainless steel or titanium alternatives.

The Best Gold Watches You Can Get Today

So without further delay, here is our list of the 15 best gold watches you can buy today:

Casio A168WG-9

First on our list is the Casio A168WG-9 watch – a legendary timepiece that effortlessly blends retro charm with cutting-edge technology. It boasts a sleek design with a case size of 38.6 x 36.3 x 9.6mm, making it a versatile option for both men and women. It is a lightweight watch, with its stainless steel case and bracelet collectively weighing 49g.

If you want an affordable gold watch, go for the Casio A168WG-9. This, unsurprisingly, is because the watch’s case is not made from pure gold or gold alloys. Instead, the case and bezel are made from gold-tone resin, which is very durable. 

Beyond its stylish facade, this watch holds practical and technologically advanced features like a digital display, electro-luminescent backlight, stopwatch functions, water resistance, a built-in alarm, and a seven (7) year battery life powered by a reliable CR2016 battery.

Pricing: Approximately $45.00

Timex Q Reissue 38mm(ref. TW2U62000ZV)

Here’s another incredibly affordable gold timepiece that pays tribute to the past while embracing present innovations. Of course, as opposed to solid gold, the watch’s stainless steel case and bracelet are gold-plated. As the name suggests, the case measures 38mm in diameter and is 11.5mm tall. It’s not exactly sleek, but it will surely slip nicely under your cuff for a dressy appeal.

First released in the 1970s, the new Timex Q Reissue 38mm has improved color variations and a functional battery hatch. It is powered by a quartz movement, which promises accurate timekeeping and provides a practical day-and-date function at 3 o’clock.

Pricing: Approximately $199.00

Brew Metric Max Gold

The Brew Metric Max Gold is one gorgeous piece of art with an equally attractive price tag that leaves you in awe. It’s—permit the pun—a perfect pairing timepiece for a day at the cafe enjoying a hot brew. Brew Watches have a thing for espresso machines and coffee, so I’m not surprised. 

With a 36mm diameter and 10.75mm thickness, the Max Gold will look good on any wrist with its tonneau-like face. The contrasting blend of gold and black on the recessed dial adds style and legibility to the watch. Speaking of gold, the timepiece has a stainless steel 316L base, which isn’t a surprise at this point. However, its durability is reinforced by a PVD gold coating and a scratch-resistant sapphire glass covering.

Pricing: Approximately $475.00

Tissot PRX Gold (ref. T137.410.33.021.00)

The Tissot PRX Gold (ref. T137.410.33.021.00) is a comeback of the 1978 version. Its dimensions of 40mm in diameter and 10.4mm thick strike a harmonious balance between graceful proportions and a bold presence. However, the watch is not necessarily eye candy because the yellow-gold PVD coating is quite dull. 

The tonneau-shaped 316L stainless steel case graces the wrist with effortless charm. And the charm is more pronounced in low-light conditions, where the luminescent indexes and hands on the champagne-colored dial light up.

Interestingly, the Tissot PRX Gold comes with an end-of-life battery indicator. This means that when the battery is almost exhausted, the second hand will move at a four-second increment instead of every second.

Pricing: Approximately $495.00

Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic (ref. H38475751)

Looks, they say, can be deceiving, but there is no mystery to this watch. With the Hamilton American Classic Intra-Matic (ref. H38475751), what you see is what you get. Well, at a glance, it might be hard to tell that you have a $900+ watch on. But the watch is as simple as any retro watch can be.

It is a classic Hamilton that marries classic vintage style with modern sophistication. So you get a stainless steel case with a PVD coating and a leather strap. It also runs on a Swiss Automatic movement with a 50-hour power reserve, 50 meters of water resistance, a date window, and an open caseback.

Pricing: Approximately $995.00

Longines Master Collection Pink Gold Anthracite Dial (ref. L2.793.8.73.2)

In celebration of the brand’s 190th anniversary, Longines unveiled some watches from the Longines Master Collection. These watches are a testament to the brand’s commitment to craftsmanship and attention to detail, and they come in different colors. The Longines Master Collection ref. L2.793.8.73.2 comes in an 18k pink gold case with an anthracite dial powered by the brand’s signature L888 automatic movement.

One can easily view the movement and its unique pink oscillating weight through the open case back, which has a sapphire crystal covering. With a 72-hour power reserve, you can leave the watch on display in your closet for three days without needing to wind it.

Pricing: Approximately $12,000

Tudor Black Bay 58 18K Gold (ref. M79018V-0001)

If you want a worthy, luxury statement piece, consider buying the Tudor Black Bay 58 18K Gold (ref. M79018V-0001). The 18ct yellow gold case and unique green-colored dial are sure to make onlookers green with envy. That’s not all; the watch also boasts a 200m water resistance, which makes it invincible for water-based activities.

At the heart of this timepiece is Tudor’s COSC-certified MT5400 movement, which guarantees accurate timekeeping and 70 hours of power reserve. The watch is adorned on the outside by a domed dark brown alligator strap and an 18ct yellow gold buckle.

Pricing: Approximately $17,400

Oris Big Crown Wings of Hope (ref. 01 401 7782 6081-Set)

Oris, in 2022, released 1000 copies of two limited edition timepieces on the market in support of an aeronautical charity, Wings of Hope. One of the limited edition designs came in a stainless steel case, and the other in an 18ct yellow gold. Oris Big Crown Wings of Hope (ref. 01 401 7782 6081-Set) is the 38mm solid gold case variant designed with a screw-in security crown, an anti-reflective sapphire glass in front, and see-through sapphire glass with engravings at the back.

Since it only has a 50m water resistance, you’ll want to think twice about placing it in water. But you shouldn’t shy away from wearing it in the dark, as the white dial features numerals and hands coated in SuperLumiNova.

This watch reflects your taste in luxury and compassion since every purchase of this watch equals a donation to Wings of Hope.

Pricing: Approximately $17,000

Breguet Classique Automatic White Gold (ref. 5157BB/11/9V6)

Breguet is a watchmaking legend that has adorned the wrists of royalty and enthusiasts for centuries. And this Breguet Classique Automatic White Gold (ref. 5157BB/11/9V6) holds the trademark classy yet minimalist air of luxury. Aside from its simple, uncluttered look, you’ll notice signature detailing, like the intricate guilloche pattern on the dial, the coin-edge case, and the iconic open-tipped Breguet hands.

With its sleek profile—38mm in diameter and barely 5.40mm thick—you’ll barely feel the weight of the 18-karat white gold on your wrists. Paired with an alligator leather strap, it slips under cuffs discreetly, making it the ultimate understated luxury gold wristwatch.

Pricing: Approximately $19,800

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Sedna Gold (ref. 220.53.41.21.13.001)

Fitted nicely in a 41mm wide and 13.2mm thick 18ct Sedna gold case, even the uninitiated can tell the Aqua Terra isn’t a dress watch. Rather, it’s a sports watch, one of the most iconic luxury sports watches, known for its amphibious prowess. The 18-karat gold is formed with the same yellow gold used to forge the first-place Olympic medal. 

However, for a watch built for sea masters known to scour the breadths and depths of the ocean, one would expect it to have a little more than a 150m water resistance.

Water resistance aside, though, this gold Omega masterpiece pays tribute to its maritime heritage. The dial’s horizontal line patterns are inspired by the wooden decks of luxury sailboats. It also has timezone and date functions and is COSC-certified for accurate timekeeping on the high seas.

Pricing: Approximately $20,700

 Cartier Santos Medium Gold (ref. WGSA0031)

The Cartier Santos collection is a legendary luxury wristwatch. Over a century since its first release, the Santos has become the go-to timepiece for VIPs across industries and cultures and remains an enduring legend. 

Its design remains largely untainted, although, like most popular models, a prime candidate for knockoffs, especially in gold. The WGSA0031 Cartier Santos has telling features only a work of art can possess, like an 18-karat gold case and bracelet, a heptagonal crown with a sapphire cut, and blued-steel sword-shaped hands that look like ties.

Not to mention some more inconspicuous details on the 35mm luxury watch, such as the screws, Roman numeral indexes, and milky-white dial.

Don’t look any further if you’re after a solid gold watch that’s dressy and flashy but not in a way that draws unwanted attention. This Cartier Santos in rose gold fits the description.

Pricing: Approximately $32,200

Rolex Day-Date 40 Gold President Green Dial (ref. 228238-0061)

Of course, no gold watch list, or luxury watch list, for that matter, is complete without featuring a Rolex. The Swiss brand has designed regal pieces that have adorned the wrists of esteemed leaders and dignitaries, and the Day-Date 40 Gold President Green Dial (ref. 228238-0061) is an icon in that regard. 

In typical fashion, every single feature of the watch is a signature of the brand, from the 40mm 18ct yellow gold Oyster case to the lacquered green dial, the mechanical Caliber 3255 with automatic self-winding, day-date apertures, and the three-piece links President bracelet.

Pricing: Approximately $70,000

Vacheron Constantin Overseas Pink Gold (ref. 4500V/110R-B705)

While the pink gold is a premium luxury, a major highlight of the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Pink Gold (ref. 4500V/110R-B705) is its blue dial. Vacheron Constantin places emphasis on crafting dressy watches with simplicity, functionality, and ergonomics, and they hit the home run here. 

The perfect blue and pink gold blend across the dial, and the case is soothing. Even better are the legible hour markers, hands on the dial, simple date aperture at 3 o’clock, and easy switch strap system.

Powering this pink gold VC is a Hallmark of Geneva-certified caliber 5100 movement with a 60-hour power reserve and 37 jewels.

Pricing: Approximately $80,000

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Jumbo Extra Thin Yellow Gold (ref. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.01)

The Royal Oak Collection, introduced in 1972, revolutionized the world of luxury sports watches despite its premium price point. This is no surprise, given its distinctive appearance and attention to detail. Its bold octagonal bezel, eight hexagonal screws, polished and satin-brushed finishes, and “Tapisserie” dial pattern paint a trademark look even random folks recognize. 

These features are not lost on the Jumbo Extra Thin Yellow Gold (ref. 15202BA.OO.1240BA.01) model. However, AP amps things up by replacing the typical stainless steel, ceramic, or titanium case and strap with an 18ct yellow gold case.

Pricing: Approximately $150,000

Patek Philippe Nautilus (ref. 5811/1G)

Now to the Chanel and Fenty of wristwatches – Patek Philippe, a brand that needs no introduction. The Nautilus ref. 5811/1G features a distinctive octagonal case crafted from 18k white gold. 

The bold and modern lines of the case, combined with the rounded octagonal bezel and horizontal grooves on the sunburst dial, are truly iconic. The luminous hands and markers ensure optimal legibility, even in low-light conditions, while the date window at 3 o’clock adds a practical touch to the watch’s functionalities.

While the watch does share an affinity with the original Nautilus 1976, the Nautilus 5811/1G features enhanced water resistance of up to 120m and a slightly bigger 41mm case. Beyond these improved features, the Nautilus in white gold stays true to its sporty essence, embodying the spirit of luxury and adventure.

Pricing: Approximately $180,000

Conclusion

Whether celebrating a life achievement, a promotion, an engagement, or looking to splurge, timekeeping takes on a new dimension with a gold wristwatch. They are not only ostentatious acquisitions but also a symbol of wealth, class, and success. And gold watches ​​can be more than meets the eye for savvy enthusiasts. Any gold wristwatch model offers astounding resale value if kept in mint condition, making it a good investment option.

Use this guide as a beacon to navigate the world of gold watches. You’ll find an affordable, iconic, classy, dressy, flashy, or even understated model that tickles your fancy. 

When people see the words “power reserve”, “jewel”, “vph”, “caliber”, or “movement”, few (even among watch enthusiasts) understand how they translate to performance. Most luxury watch owners, especially first-time owners, buy for brand prestige, appearance, or resale value. And rarely because of the watch movement. 

I spoke to a Rolex Datejust owner who was unaware of the caliber or function of his watch, saying he got it for the status and investment value Rolex offers. He’s now on the lookout for a Sky-Dweller, still with no idea what makes his timepiece tick. 

While this isn’t uncommon or ignorant, it backs up a 2008 study by IJMASS that found that a significant portion of consumers value brand reputation over technical aspects when purchasing watches. 

Well, that’s fine. But the team at Exquisite Timepieces values building a community of watch owners that understand the intricacies and facts about their prized possession. Hence, we made this comprehensive overview of the most popular automatic watch movements and how they work.

About Automatic Watch Movements

Watch movements have captivated the interest and attention of hardcore horologists and enthusiasts for centuries. From the precision of the quartz movement to the artistic glide of the mechanical ones, timekeeping and its intricacies have continuously evolved. And the automatic watch movement is today’s blueprint and hallmark of top-tier watch engineering.

Automatic or self-winding watch movements keep time without batteries or constant hand winding. Contrary to popular belief, magic does not power watches with automatic movements. 

They simply testify to the law of physics by using the wearer’s motion to power the watch’s mainspring – the power source. This way, it never runs out of juice unless it’s inactive after the exhaustion of the power reserve. 

The x-factor in automatic watch movements is the semicircular weight/rotor that rotates on the back of the movement/caliber. You’ll see this clearly in watches with transparent case backs. The “rotor” uses kinetic energy – as it swings back and forth on a pivot with the wearer’s movement, it winds the mainspring, so it charges automatically.

The energy stored up in the mainspring is released in a controlled manner to power the watch with the help of the escapement and balance wheel. Acting as the watch’s brain, the escapement produces a tick-tock motion that controls energy flow to the balance wheel. Then the balance wheel oscillates back and forth at a precise frequency, ensuring that the watch’s hands glide seamlessly across the dial.

History Of Automatic Watch Movements

The creation of the first automatic movement is often attributed to a Swiss watchmaker from Le Locle, Abraham-Louis Perrelet. Perrelet unveiled a pocket watch with a self-winding mechanism in 1777 with a rotor or oscillating weight that moved up and down, harnessing the wearer’s motion to wind the mainspring. It took an estimated 15-minute walk to fully wound the watch.

Perrelet’s invention inspired other watchmakers to improve this design, including Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of Breguet. He got it right, using a barrel remontoir instead of a rotor. But it was too expensive to be mass-produced.

The Harwood Breakthrough

While several other horologists successfully created a self-winding mechanism, they were rare prototypes. It took almost two centuries to produce one for the public. Harwood obtained the patent for the first mainstream automatic wristwatch in 1923, which opened room for the sophisticated calibers we use today. 

His self-winding mechanism used a pivoting rotor that only moved back and forth – now called the bumper or hammer – in a 180-degree motion. Harwood’s movements had a power reserve of up to 12 hours when fully wound.

Harwood’s automatic watch movement soon gained widespread popularity and was quickly embraced by other manufacturers.

Rolex refined the design in 1930 with adjustments to the oscillating weight – giving it a full 360-degree. This simple workaround stored more energy in the mainspring – providing the Oyster Perpetual a 35-hour power reserve. 

In the same year, Glycine released the world’s first widely produced automatic watch movement. Eterna also made a notable contribution in 1948 by introducing ball bearings to these movements. This ingenious addition ensured that the internal structures of the watch stayed in place even when subject to trauma.

Most Popular Automatic Watch Movements

Now that we’ve shed some light on the automatic watch movement and its history, here are some of the most popular automatic movements in the watch industry. From iconic classics to innovative brands, we’ll unravel each movement’s history, specifications, and unique characteristics.

Automatic Movements	Height	Diameter	Power Reserve	Jewels	VPH	Hacking Seconds	Hand Windable	Shock Protector	Accuracy
SW200-1	4.6mm	25.6mm	41 hours	26	28,800	Yes	Yes	Novodiac/Incabloc	Depends on the grade
ETA 2824-2	4.6mm	25.6mm	38 hours	25	28,800	Yes	Yes	Novodiac/Incabloc
Seiko NH35A	5.32mm	27.4mm	41 hours	24	21,600	Yes	Yes	Diashock	-20 to +40 s/d
Miyota 9015	3.9mm	26mm	42 hours	24	28,800	Yes	Yes	Prashock	-10 to +30 s/d
STP1-11	4.6mm	25.6mm	44 hours	26	28,800	Yes	Yes	Incabloc	-0 to +20 s/d
ETA/Valjoux 7750	7.9mm	30mm	48 hours	25	28,800	Yes	Yes	Incabloc	Depends on the variant
Soprod A10	3.6mm	25.6mm	42 hours	25	28,800	Yes	Yes	Incabloc	+/-4 s/d

Sellita SW200-1

The SW200-1 automatic watch movement, crafted by Sellita, a renowned Swiss movement manufacturer, is often said to be a clone of the ETA 2824-2. It came to the fore after ETA cut off deliveries to third parties, and its patent on the caliber expired in 2003. Sellita, who was formerly assembling the parts of watch movements, decided to start producing the parts in-house. The plan was successful, and it resulted in the SW200-1.

This movement has now come to be known for its precision, reliability, and economical nature. The SW200-1 measures 25.6mm in diameter and 4.6mm in height. It bears 26 jewels and operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour. The caliber also comes with hour, minutes, sweep center seconds, stop seconds hacking feature, and ball bearing.

The presence of a date feature depends on whether your watch comes with the SW200-1a or b. The SW200-1a has a built-in date window with quick setting, while the SW200-1b doesn’t. Additionally, when fully wound, the movement has an impressive power reserve of 41 hours. However, the watch’s accuracy is determined by the quality level of your movement. SW200-1 automatic movement has four (4) quality levels:

• Standard – accuracy of +/-12 s/d to +/-30 s/d
• Special (Elabore) – accuracy of +/-7 s/d to +/-20 s/d
• Premium (Top) – accuracy of +/-4 s/d to +/-1 s/d
• Chronometre – accuracy meets COSC criteria

The versatility of the Sellita SW200-1 is evident in its widespread adoption by watch brands across various styles and designs. It powers several watches, such as the C60 Trident Pro 600 by Christopher Ward, the Serket Reef Diver 2.0 Microband, and the Invicta Meteorite Ocean Ghost Diver 5015. Also, the Oris 773 Caliber, found in some watches in the Oris Divers Sixty-Five line, is based on the Sellita SW200-1.

ETA 2824-2

ETA 2824-2 has to be the most popular of all the industry’s automatic watch movements. Produced by ETA-SA, a renowned Swiss movement manufacturer and a subsidiary of the Swatch Group, the evolution of this highly esteemed movement dates back to 1982. It is a secondary generation of the ETA 2824 caliber and is based on the earlier mentioned Eterna Calibre – hence its ball bearings.

This self-winding movement, often described as a “workhorse movement”, shares similar features with the Sellita SW200-1 because the latter was based on its design. It operates at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour, boasts a power reserve of 38 hours, 25 jewels, and an Etachron regulator. 

Like the SW200-1, it measures 25.6mm in diameter and is 4.6mm thick. It also has central hour, minutes, sweep seconds, and a date window – the position could differ depending on the manufacturer). Plus, it is designed with a hacking feature and can be wound by hand.

There is a manual wind version of the ETA 2824-2, known as the 2804-2 caliber. Ever since the ETA-SA lost its patent of the 2824-2, manufacturers have proceeded to make clones of the automatic movement. 

One notorious clone is the Sellita SW200-1. Also, Seagull’s ST2130 caliber, Hangzhou’s caliber 6300, and Valanvron’s VAL-24 are all clones of the 2824-2. Moreover, Tissot Visodate and Hamilton Khaki King watch models feature the ETA 2824-2 automatic movement.

Seiko NH35A

The NH35A is an unbranded version of the Seiko 4R35, proudly crafted by the esteemed Japan watch manufacturer Seiko. Note that this caliber could be manufactured in Japan or Malaysia – the country of manufacture is often inscribed on the rotor. Regardless of where it is manufactured, the Seiko NH35A is prized for durability, ruggedness, and affordability.

This self-winding movement has a slimmer profile when compared to the ETA 2824-2 and SW200-1. It is only 5.32mm thick with a 27.4mm diameter. Operating at a frequency of 21,600 beats per hour, the NH35A delivers accuracy within the range of -20 to +40 seconds per day. It is also designed with a hacking feature, a bi-directional rotor, 24 jewels, and a diashock protector. The crown reinforces the anti-shock and waterproof feature.

Speaking of the crown, it is worth noting that its three positions each have different functions. At 0 position (against the case), the crown is used to wind the caliber manually. The NH35A has a 41-hour power reserve at full charge, which can be achieved after manually turning the crown 55 times. 

The crown can adjust the date at the 1 position (a click away from the case). And for the hacking stop-seconds feature, the crown should be placed at the 2 position (two clicks away from the case).

This unbranded Seiko automatic watch movement has an incredibly long lifespan, with a tendency to last 5 to 25 years. It’s no wonder that the NH35A is featured in rugged watches from brands like Invicta, Vostok, Orion, Helm, and Lum-Tec.

Miyota 9015

With a 26mm diameter and 3.9mm thickness, the Miyota 9015 has to be our list’s thinnest automatic watch movement. Its height makes it a great fit for dress watches. But don’t be fooled by its sleek design; this caliber is a workhouse movement with powerful features.

For one, it does spot a highly impressive power reserve of up to 42 hours when fully wound, allowing it to keep time accurately for almost two days. And its accuracy, between -10 to +30 seconds per day, has been vetted by third-party micro brands like Marc & Sons Pilot Watch. It can be hand wound, ensuring accurate and precise timekeeping.

In addition to the power reserve, other specifics of the Japanese Calibre 9015 are a 28,800 vibration per hour, unidirectional rotor, central hour, minutes and seconds sweep, 24 jewels, date calendar, and parashock system.

Watches that feature the Miyota 9015 include Vaer D5 Dive, Lum-Tec B24 Carbon, and BOLDR Odyssey Free Diver.

Swiss Technology Production STP1-11

Here’s another automatic watch movement based on the ETA 2824-2 and the Swellita SW200-1. It is a 26-jewel movement which is one more jewel than 2824-2 – the extra jewel supports the barrel arbor. It retains the 25.6mm diameter and 4.6mm thickness, 28,800 beats per hour, bi-directional rotor, hand winding, and hacking feature of the 2824-2.

However, what sets this movement apart is its power reserve. So instead of a 41-hour power reserve, the STP1-11 can last up to 44 hours when fully wound. This extended power boost is due to a longer and thinner mainspring, which provides more room to store energy and a resulting substantial reserve.

The STP1-11 comes with a calendar complication that could be at 3 or 6 o’clock. Its accuracy rating is -0 to +20 seconds per day, and it has been tested in five (5) positions meeting COSC chronometer standards.

Unsurprisingly, the Swiss Technology Production STP1-11 has inspired many other calibers in-house and amongst other brands. The STP1-11M is a manually wound version of the STP1-11. STP2-12, STP3-13, STP5-15, and STP6-15 are all based on this prestigious self-winding movement. Plus, you can find the caliber in the BOLDR Odyssey and Stella Felix watches, among others.

ETA/Valjoux 7750

The ETA/Valjoux 7750 is a legendary automatic chronograph watch movement. Originally, the movement was designed by Valjoux and was based on the manually wound Valjoux 7733. It was first intended as a watch computer for pilots and sold on the market between 1973 and 1974. However, production stopped at some point, and it wasn’t back on sale until 1985.

The name ETA/Valjoux 7750 resulted from a 1944 merger between Valjoux and AUSAG, which owned other smaller companies, including ETA. Thus, except for the original version, the automatic movement is often called ETA 7750.

Original versions of the ETA 7750 were designed with 17 jewels, and subsequent versions with 24 jewels. The contemporary movements, however, come with 25 jewels, three sub-dials, a day/date feature at 3, a ball bearing rotor system, and 48 hours power reserve. It has a 30mm diameter, 7.9mm thickness, and 28,800vph – as opposed to the 21,600vph in earlier models.

The 7750 comes in four grades, meaning the accuracy of the movement varies with each grade. There are also several variations, such as the 7751, 7753, and 7754, which mainly differ in the position of the subdials, date feature, and the absence or presence of a GMT hand or moon phase.

The ETA/Valjoux 7750 has found its home in numerous remarkable timepieces from manufacturers like Alpina, Tag Heuer, Oris, Sinn, Chronoswiss, and Breitling.

Soprod A10

If you own a Steinhart Ocean Titanium 500 Premium, Stowa Marine Automatic, Sinn T1, T2, or EZM3, you’ll be familiar with this Swiss movement. It was designed by Soprod, a subsidiary of the Festina Group, and is now designated the Caliber M100.

The Soprod A10 is based on a caliber from the Seiko 4L family – Caliber 4L25- often found in high-end watches. It is designed with a glucydur balance, incabloc shock system, 28,800 bph, 25.6mm, and a 3.6mm thickness. In addition to these features, it has 25 jewels, 42 hours of power reserve, and hacking seconds feature.

There are three(3) variations of the A10 self-winding movement. While they share the same dimension, beats, power reserve, and jewels, they differ in the absence or presence of a date complication, balance wheel, or skeletonized dial. A10-2 is built with three regular hands and no date complications. SOP A10BV-2 has three hands and an open balance wheel, with no date complication. SOP A10SQ-2 lacks a date feature but is built into a skeletonized dial.

Conclusion

The watch industry has been graced with the most fascinating and ingenious automatic watch movements. We have explored the most popular of these movements, from legendary ones like the ETA 2824-2 and Sellita SW200-1 to the notorious automatic chronograph movement, ETA/Valjoux 7750, and other equally remarkable ones like the Seiko NHE5A, Miyota 9015 and the STP1-11.

These timeless movements, with their designs, rotor system, crown positions, power reserves and reinventions, power diverse watches – be they classic dress watches or rugged sports timepieces. And with your newly found knowledge of the most popular automatic watch movements, we hope that you make more informed decisions on your next watch purchase.

In the comment section, let us know what you think about these popular automatic watch movements. Cheers!